English sentences with air leakage in context,
32 exact matches They should fit fairly snug inside the frame without tape, which would minimize the amount of air leakage past the filters.
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Incorrect size, blown, or missing o-ring there will cause air leakage and extremely foamy pours.
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The quantitative pollutant removal rate reported by the NASA research is equivalent to 1/10 of an air change per hour, the ventilation rate due to air leakage in a very tightly sealed house filled with three layers of plants, leaving no room for furniture or people.
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As for the why.... they are ideal for finding hot spots in electrical circuits and cold spots for air leakage and insulation issues.
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While cellulose does reduce air leakage, it doesn't do so to nearly the same degree as air sealing.
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Even if you had a hermetically sealed HVAC system, the air leakage in the building envelope could still be caused by pressure imbalances.
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A bit of air leakage?
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Nowadays, windows have a tested air leakage rating, so really, you can just go by that number.
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Common air leakage is vacuum lines, bad gaskets on lets say the intake mani or a crack letting air straight through the block.
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Air-permeable insulation is usually less desirable than products that resist airflow, but air leakage concerns can be addressed during other stages of the building process – making air-permeable insulation a cost-effective and perfectly acceptable solution.
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Eh, it was hard as a bastard to light because I must not have patched the air leaks around the cross very well but once lit it burned OK. Major problem was air leakage.
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No air leakage from around the rim of the glass?
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Super-insulated homes tend to be less about the insulation and more about controlling air leakage.
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The quantitative pollutant removal rate reported by the NASA research is equivalent to 1/10 of an air change per hour, the ventilation rate due to air leakage in a very tightly sealed house filled with three layers of plants, leaving no room for furniture or people.
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Sounds like you created more air leakage.
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So if you want to stop air leakage, a batt won't help much.
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IR guns will give you similar info on where you have cold spots from air leakage or hot spots from leaking heating systems.
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This joint should be caulked to prevent air leakage anyway.
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Human error, gauge error, and air leakage could easily account for another .3 PSI.
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The rest could easily be explained by gauge error, human error, and air leakage.
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Air leakage will depend on a LOT of factors, materials of construction, impacts, damage (to name a few).
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.3 PSI wouldn't be a huge difference for slight air leakage, parallax error, or gauge accuracy.
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This would be a 1.5 PSI difference from the 12.5 minimum and with human error and possible air leakage you can get pretty close to a 2 PSI difference.
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If you want to avoid the smells, store your bud in a glass jar with a rubber seal that prevents air leakage (I picked one up at Wal-Mart for $10) and to avoid smells on your body, use a vapourizer.
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The quantitative pollutant removal rate reported by the NASA research is equivalent to 1/10 of an air change per hour, the ventilation rate due to air leakage in a very tightly sealed house filled with three layers of plants, leaving no room for furniture or people.
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Air flow in a blower door isn't the same as real air leakage, certainly.
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If the wind blows Southerly rather than Easterly, the air leakage is rather different.
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It's also a good idea to insulate the hatch with layers of rigid foam, and weatherstrip it to reduce air leakage.
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The insulation will stop most of the air leakage from entering your living space, so I would not kill yourself if you can't caulk everywhere.
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Your cold room likely has a combination of air leakage, and no insulation.
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We test efficiency and carbon monoxide and drafts on your combustion appliances and then set up a blower door to check for air leakage.
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So in your case, if you were to insulate the cold room under your porch (walls and ceiling) it would simply serve to slow the loss of heat from any heat source which includes radiation from your actually heated house above, and convection from air leakage from your main story floor.
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If you were the owner/landlord, I'd advise you to have your ducts tested for leakage and insulation in unconditioned spaces (assuming you have a forced-air heating system), but you may not have access to the ducts.
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I recommend getting at least a six core CPU with Nvidia GTX 970 or 980 with a good CPU air cooler (although I have a Corsair H80 liquid cooler but the horror stories of leakage don't frighten me).
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The Nautilus is an incredible tank IMO, it has variable air flow settings to adjust the vapor to air ratio (again play around with this to see what setting you like best), and holds a pretty decent amount of juice, as well as having tight seals to prevent leakage.
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In residential HVAC systems it is more likely that there is duct work located outside the building envelope, and any leakage in the ducts outside the building will be replace by the return side pulling air in through the outside walls/penetrations/leakage in the return side.
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My advice for the TWSBI would be to leave some air in the barrel if you plan to fly with it inked as the change in air pressure could cause leakage if it is fully loaded.
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The straps aren't very tight around your head, it seems counter intuitive but if you strap the mask down tight it will leak more, I can sleep with only the lower straps of my nasal mask attached loosely and I get very little leakage of air.
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You might have some leakage, that causes the air come out of elsewhere than the airlock, but that's not a problem.
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If you plan on freediving the air trapped in the snorkel will pull on your mask strap causing leakage.
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Closing vents in unused rooms increases duct pressure and causes duct leakage and overworks your central air.
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Awesome dual coil build deck with massive air flow and raised airflow holes to avoid leakage.
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Higher up air holes to prevent leakage and it comes with an extra wide bore tip.
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Water cooling also means you need to check for leakages, you have more mechanical parts that can fail - in case water pump dies, heat will not be taken from your CPU AT ALL, while in case of air cooling, if the fan engine/ball bearings die, you still have huge metal radiator that can vent heat and give you time to shut down the system properly.
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So if we exclude for the time being natural leakage, forcing air out due to spiking the ball, etc., the only variable affecting the pressure of the ball is the change in temperature, such that a drop in temperature will effect a proportionate drop in pressure.
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Some say they get leaks from the air holes, I've found (as many videos show), as long as you place the cotton from post to the air hole on all four sides it'll "block" any leakage since you don't put any wick down the channel, unlike the Orchid.
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Designing something as complex as an engine from scratch means figuring out a workable balance between many needs... the angle of the "V", the spacing of the piston centers, the thickness of the cylinder walls, the water jacket, oiling scheme/path, valve configuration, where the block is bored for anything from balance shafts to cams to expansion (freeze) plugs, how heat is managed, making sure that there aren't any locations in the block that happen to catch debris (in oil, in coolant, in fuel/air charge) or soot just because of flow turbulence, making sure there aren't hot spots that expand at a different rate than other parts which would lead to fracture or gasket leakage.... making sure oil delivery is consistent and sufficient...
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Build it tight (low leakage of outside air), use lots of insulation, use energy-efficient heating and A/C (perhaps geothermal), use common-sense techniques like orienting the house/windows properly for shade in the summer and sun in the winter, and use green energy sources like solar.
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If you reduce the leakage, the indoor air will be less dry.
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Additionally, they are useful because you can measure the leakage, perform some air sealing, test again, and find out how effective your work was.
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