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English sentences with bokeh lens in context,

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It's a fresnel lens, which can have some issues with bokeh and lens flare.
source: Redditshow contexthide context

I'm getting a very strange artifact on my Bokeh for my 85mm Rokinon lens, it looks like thin objects in the background are doubling up.
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If you crop excessively then you lose resolution and limit your freedom bokeh wise, so it is best to shoot with a lens and from a distance so that either your X or Y axis does not need cropping.
source: Reddit

The 50mm 1.8 is a fantastic starter lens, but once you get to know the back draws of it you will look for better lenses (the 50mm is soft, the CA can be a problem, the bokeh is harsh)
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I can't find any bokeh this ugly on google images for that lens.
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It doesn't matter the aperture as much unless you're going for bokeh which you could use any zoom lens or a prime and stop it down to F5.6-F8.
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The lens performs really well on both bodies and creates awesome bokeh.
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It's a sharp lens but the bokeh is ugly.
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Also, a little tip about bokeh and shooting with a smaller aperture, shoot one lens longer than you think you want, and back up.
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Maybe that lens would excel at foreground bokeh?
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I have noticed that they do extrapolate more from the data to exaggerate things such as the synthesized lens Bokeh or parallaxing effect.
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I also have a Nikon 50mm F/1.8 which is the perfect starting prime lens, the low aperture is perfect for bokeh or stylizing through depth of field or lowlight photos.
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sick bokeh dude, what lens is that?
source: Reddit

Because the aperture was wide open, this was the max bokeh I was going to get with this lens.
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Funny you should say that, because evaluation for "onion ring bokeh" is one of the typical categories a lens is tested for.
source: Reddit

The rain will light up all sorts of funky colors, and the bokeh from out-of-focus raindrops will reflect any raindrops on the lens.
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On my G6 I can get decent Bokeh using a 14-42 lens that came with the camera.
source: Reddit

Take a look at soviet Helios 44 lens, they're pretty cheap and give interesting image(swirly bokeh).
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I do long exposures, bokeh walls, light painting, macro shots (with a lens reversed since I don't have a macro lens), diptychs & triptychs, ghost exposures, and texture shots.
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The buzzy, slow autofocus, the ugly pentagonal bokeh, it was the lens I never loved and gladly sold, haha.
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For the next time, use a better lens with a better bokeh, shoot in manual to have consistency, and mass process your pictures with light room.
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Anyone who knows even the word bokeh, let alone what a wider lens and larger aperture does to their FOV knows his stuff, or at least has spent a lot of time reading forums.
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The biggest difference would be the aperture, a standard lens is usually F1.8 so there would be more separation from the background (bokeh) and primes tend to have a bit more micro-contrast aswell.
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I don't really shoot telephoto very often but considering situations where I have I can't think of any where it would have come up, unlike say reflex lens donut bokeh.
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I'm saying it's a hell of a lot easier to shoot a flashlight into a lens than it is to set up keyframes, track motion, set Lens bokeh size and animate, etc- and make a post flare actually look "realistic" and good.
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Last time I checked my eyes didn't have bokeh and anamorphic lens flares.
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buddy, this was so clearly not taken on an iphone, from the lens compression to the bokeh and the 12.2 mega pixel resolution??
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What lens did you use to get that bokeh?
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Only snagged my 50mm and the lens that came with the camera (18-55, but I really enjoyed it's bokeh compared to my really old 18-55 that came with my 20d).
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My only worry is that I can just pull out my Pentax 50mm f1.7 and an adapter if I really want low light and bokeh, and that's an extremely sharp lens anyway.
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This will give you a FAST lens with excellent bokeh, which is great for portraits, at relatively inexpensive prices.
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The bokeh is pentagonal as well on that lens.
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Huge low-light advantage, lots of sharpness, and the potential for dramatically more bokeh than you could ever get on the kit lens.
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The trouble I was having with creating a "bokeh" background was getting far enough away from anything because I was using a 50mm lens which is too long for indoors.
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It's an old Russian lens from the 50's, and it gives some awesome flaring and bokeh.
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I guess what I'm really trying to say is that bokeh isn't really a "technique", it's the result of a few factors, mostly the quality of the lens and the aperture you choose for the shot.
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There's a lot of detail in top bokeh part, which would be pretty easy to do with a F1.4-1.8 lens.
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How do I get a little bit of bokeh with this kit lens while not having enough real light.
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Looks like a Bokeh effect from a lens with wide aperture.
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The lens blur/bokeh it's capable of is really nice.
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Does lens blur render stronger highlights for light sources and show bokeh circles from the aperture(or whatever those are called)?
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How do you attach the pattern to your lens for bokeh?
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Bokeh has a lot to do with the way the lens is constructed, which is not something you have any control over unless you remove the lens and put on a new one, which you can surely do in the future if you want to.
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This lens' max aperture is too small to produce pleasing bokeh and it is not otherwise constructed for pleasing bokeh either.
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I also got a 50mm prime f/1.8 AF lens and a vintage Soviet lens which produced awesome swirly bokeh.
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The Helios 44-2 (which OP used for that shot) is a cheap and plentiful old Russian lens that's well known for creating that distinct bokeh.
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It was shot wide open which means reflected light bounced into the lens creating all the wonderful "bokeh" you can see.
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I said the photographer deserves a lens that gives better bokeh.
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You're ready for a better lens, the bokeh on this one is kind of ugly.
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I also have a Helios 44m-4 which is a budget lens (I got a pristine copy in a junk vintage shop for £10) but it has a very distinct bokeh and is a copy of Zeiss glass.
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